Tacolandia: Stalking Fish Tacos in San Diego

"Hola, Julie-girl, Julie-mama, where are you?  Estás on my side of the country yet?"  I listened to the message from my darling Betty, still in San Francisco, slated to arrive in San Diego the next day and meet up with me at the  educator's conference.  I called right back, and found her at home in the Mission, getting ready for the trip.  "Hey Betty-girl, Betty-mama, estoy aqui already en San Diego.  When do you get in?" 

In our usual Spanglish mix, we synchronized watches and coordinated times for her arrival the next day.  We wouldn't have much time together at this conference, since we weren't rooming together; most of our time was already accounted for, up to and including obligatory conference lunches and dinners.  But we figured out a time to meet for drinks and planned to sit together at the dinner.  Then I got down to business. 

"Mira, Betty.  There's something I need to know.  Where should I go for a good fish taco?"  I was a woman on a mission.  I'm misquoting, but I know it was Calvin Trillin who said something along these lines:  for travellers, the most important phrase in any language is "Bring me your local specialties."   My version of this is to identify the one local dish I really want to try when I'm on a brief conference jaunt in a strange city.  I then use whatever tiny allotment of free time I may have, whenever it may fall, to hunt my quarry.   

Betty probably thought I was going to ask her a question about my presentation for the conference -- even though I've done quite a number of presentations, I generally develop a little stage-fright, and have to run things by my colleagues in order to ease my nervousness.  But this time I had other things on my mind -- or as I like to think of it, I had my priorities in order.  Once I'd had my fish taco, I'd be able to concentrate on the other reason I'd come to San Diego. 

"Bueno, girl.  It shouldn't be problematico; pues, you're in Tacolandia." I should be able to find a Baja-style fish taco almost anywhere in San Diego, Betty assured me.  Although our hotel served reasonably good food, with several Mexican options on the menu, fish tacos were not among them.  I would have to go out hunting.  Fortunately, I was signed up for a writing marathon/tour of San Diego's Gaslamp Quarter the next day.  Although there were no branches of the famous Rubio's in that area, I was assured that there were plenty of other fish taco venues.   I certainly hoped so;  I had never had an authentic fish taco, and was determined not to leave San Diego before this delicacy had passed my lips. 

It didn't take long for me to become tired and vaguely cranky during our Gaslamp tour the following day.  It occurred to me that my mild fussiness was traceable to the time difference.  Whereas it might only be 11:00 a.m. in San Diego, it was 2:00 in New York, well after my normal lunchtime on an active school/work day.  Apparently my imperious and demanding tummy had not reset its clock.  So my pal Raquel and I set off for the Tin Fish, where we had been assured that fish tacos were on the menu.   The Tin Fish, located conveniently near the clean and pretty trolley system, is a fast-food fish restaurant, only...different.  First of all, everything about it is immaculate, from the facility itself to the helpful and pleasant servers.  The seafood platters we could see being brought out to customers made our mouths water.  The lovely dining patio is sunny and flower-filled.  The restaurant has an efficient system whereby you stand on line, order and pay for your food, and then take a numbered sign on a table-top stand out to your table.  Your server finds you by number, and brings your delectable, inexpensive and huge lunch right to your table. 

I had two tacos -- a grilled halibut, and a classic fried fish, which was cod.  Each one featured impeccably fresh piping hot fish on a soft warm corn tortilla, bedded with crisp shredded cabbage and sprinkled with cheese, pico de gallo and drizzled with a white sauce, which was either crema or mayo-based.  Whatever it was, it was surely fine.  Messy, yes, as street-food-style treats tend to be, but incredibly delicious and satisfying nonetheless.    Now I understood what all the fish taco fuss was about -- why there were "the taco wars", fish taco-related arguments about whether cheese is appropriate on a fish taco, or should it actually have guacamole?  If it's not fried, is it really a Baja-style taco?  Can you actually get an authentic Baja-style fish taco in San Diego, I began to wonder, or did you need to go to Baja...

Suddenly the sound of an approaching trolley broke into my fish taco reverie.  Raquel and I knew we had to get that trolley in order to get back to our next series of conference commitments.  Stuffing the last bite of crisp fried fish into my mouth, I ran for the trolley, a fish taco virgin no longer.  My San Diego mission had been accomplished, and the rest of the conference, including my own presentation, would be a breeze. 

Comments

[valentina]

I have learnt something new. Had not heard of fish tacos yet. Great post.

[Lindy]

My transplanted friends from San Diego talk of these. I already was wanting some before I read this. Now I am lost.

I dearly love C. Trillan, who I believe also discussed this specialty. Mmmm. yum.

[Bakerina]

Ohhhh, dearest. I have a source of fish tacos in midtown for you. They're not authentic San Diego tacos, but they are still luscious -- and honestly, when I tell you where the tacqueria is located, you will be surprised.

Such a beautiful post this is. I just might have to hide in your luggage on your next trip. :)

[Mandy]

Julie,

Sounds like you are a very busy lady with your travels. I hope your father is feeling better lately.

Have you had the chance to find the amethyst floralia lately? I've been meaning to go back to Sonoma for more.

Be sure to let me know next time you're in town!

[Julie]

Valentina, thanks for stopping by -- give those tacos a try if you get a chance!

Hey Lindy, I'm a great Calvin Trillin devotee as well. Your San Diego friends are right. These are habit-forming...

...which is why it's so great that you, dear Bakerina, have offered a local source for this delicacy! When are we going?

Hi Mandy -- great to hear from you! Our troubles seem to be easing up at this point, and all is more or less well. I've sourced the Amethyst wine in a couple of places, all far from NYC. Close to you, however -- apparently Pearson's Wines, on Wisconsin Ave., carries it. So I have a case on hold, and am hoping to get down to DC soon, even if only to pick it up! If I come down, I'll definitely let you know. And same here -- if you come up this way, drop me a line.

[Joe Bellacero]

Hey, Julie, having been on a jaunt or two with you, I know two things, first, your presentations are always impeccable and second, your food/presentation priorities are always straight.

Joe

[Nancy]

I heart fish tacos and my favorite NY fish tacos, I get from the Green Cactus off of Austin Street in Forest Hills.

[katie]

i came across this post and must give my 2 cents being a native san diegan....everyone has their preferences for fish tacos, but i say one of the best i've ever had were at The Brigantine in Del Mar, on hwy 101 and via de la valle. delicious. the secret is in the white sauce, part sour cream, part lime juice, part hot sauce. delicious again.