Dinner at the Savoy

Adam over at The Amateur Gourmet is having a busy week, so he's exhorted all of his readers to "talk amongst themselves" by posting restaurant reviews.  I'll link to my comment on his site, but since this is long, I thought I'd post it here.

I’ve been wanting to try the Savoy for years.  And I really, really wanted to like it.  And I did like it.  I just didn’t love it, adore it, and feel as if I can’t wait to go back.   I’m still trying to figure out why. 

We went with friends on Christmas Eve, having made the reservation well in advance.  This, of course, was more than a month ago, so I may have forgotten a few things.  What surprised me upon entering was the fact that the space seemed so small.  New York is full of little restaurants that manage to seem cozy.  The Savoy just seems, well, small.  Cramped.  And somehow, not very welcoming.  What’s strange is I think they wanted to be – but something was missing.  Chef Peter Hoffman is famed for his support of small farmers, his use of fresh local produce, his belief in ethically raised food.  I suppose I thought that this kinder, gentler behavior would extend to customers as well.  And maybe it does on a night that’s not a holiday.  I may have gone at a time when the staff was overextended and perhaps not feeling a lot of holiday cheer themselves.  But my first impression of the restaurant was that it was cold.  And although our meal was for the most part excellent, the environment didn’t really grow any warmer. 

Certainly they were accommodating.   They were serving their regular winter menu, and in addition had a special prix-fixe chef’s menu for the holiday.  None of us wanted that menu, preferring to order a la carte, but my friend Bonnie and I both wanted the foie gras appetizer, which wasn’t on the regular menu.  We were told that it would be no problem. 

And it was great, truly great.  The foie gras was crisply seared without, and still quiveringly tender within.  It was served on a bed of sautéed cabbage, which at first sounded like an odd pairing to me.  All I can tell you is that it was wonderful.  Somehow the crisp-tender cabbage was infused with meaty flavors, while the foie gras had been sweetened with a fruit vinegar reduction, probably fig.  It was lovely, and made me feel as if I’d like to have a whole lot more foie gras in my life. 

Our table also had a very good roasted cauliflower appetizer, and a house-made sausage with a warm lentil potato salad.  These were hearty dishes, and although the menu descriptions make them sound fairly pedestrian, they were not.  I don’t know whether it’s the incomparable freshness of the ingredients, or the subtle use of almost undiscernable flavors, but almost every dish had a somewhat ethereal, out-of-the-ordinary quality.

For the main course, I had the salt-baked duck in a cider reduction.  Delightful, although slightly, umm, salty.  But that was to be expected, and the salt was fairly well balanced by the sweetness of the cider.  G had venison, which was tender and not at all gamy,  although very flavorful.  Unfortunately I can’t really remember the other entrees at the table.  We ordered a cheese plate for the table to share, and it was beautiful – a selection of 4 unusual cheeses with fruits, nuts and conserves. 

Honestly, I don’t remember a whole lot about the desserts.  And considering my almost-insatiable sweet tooth, that might imply that they simply weren’t memorable.  I do know that we had a plate with several different sorbets, none of which were identifiable.  They were all sort of sweet and mild.  I don’t really like that.  Sometimes that means that they’re made with such unusual ingredients that you simply don’t know what they are.  But I like sorbet to taste so intensely of fruit that you must of course immediately know of what fruit it is composed.  I know we also had a pear dessert, a tart or cake or something, which was good.  And knowing me, I probably ordered something chocolate.  My problem with long, multi-course meals is that I’m basically a cheap date. Despite my food infatuation, I have a limited capacity for food, and when in a restaurant, I often wish that I could have dessert a couple of hours after the meal – which is usually what I do at home. 

Throughout our meal, the service was adequate.  I just never really felt the warmth that I’ve come to associate with a luxurious meal.  I’m not looking for phony solicitousness, but rather people who actually seem to care when they inquire about your meal.  I may have been slightly spoiled by Danny Meyer’s  restaurants;  the staff members at Union Square Café, Gramercy Tavern, Tabla, and Eleven Madison Park are genuine, and somehow seem happy to be doing their jobs.  Nothing is too much or too difficult for them; they’re friendly and personal without being intrusive or obsequious.

The food was certainly delightful enough, however, that I’d be willing to give the Savoy another try on a non-holiday.  After all, I do have a birthday coming up…and it hasn’t been declared a national holiday yet, not as far as I know. 

Comments

[rowena]

Julie I absolutely enjoyed reading your post on the Savoy. I agree....some places just come off as rather cold, no matter how many good things have been said about them. Chef Peter Hoffman's way of thinking is something that resembles Slow Food....small local farmers...that's the way to go!

I see that you've just started! (I love the header, sounds like me whenever I am baking in the kitchen!). Would you mind if I link you on my site? I like to update my food links every few months to have new foodbloggers on there. With all of the foodies around, it's always nice to see a new take on good eating!

[Ernie]

I ate at Savoy many years ago, when they were still new.
We ate upstairs, at the time it seemed cozy. This was lunch and though I remeber it fondly, I've never been back. Hmm. Usually not the case when I truly love a restaurant.

Ernie

[rowena]

Regarding your time in Italy....if you have any suggestions for a particular restaurant please do share!! I like to keep a list of places to check out if I'm ever in a certain area.