Chocolate = Spring: A Trip to Jacques Torres' Chocolate Haven

"I think we can't go around measuring our goodness by what we don't do - by what we deny ourselves, what we resist and who we exclude.  I think we've got to measure goodness by what we embrace, what we create and who we include."   
     -Père Henri's Easter Morning Sermon, Chocolat

As an education consultant, I find that the scope of my job is ever expanding.  The other day, a teacher with whom I work came to ask me for advice on chocolate.  My reputation is growing, I see.  Usually Robin and I talk about literacy practices and writing strategies, but my policy is to always to let the consultee set the agenda. 

Robin, who's a fairly recent transplant to NYC from the beautiful Berkshire mountains of Massachusetts, wanted to know where to get some chocolate.  She didn't want just any chocolate, however -- no drugstore Easter assortments this year.  She told me that she and her fiancé Ian had considered making Easter baskets for each other, but had since decided to spend the same money on buying some really good chocolate for their Easter celebration.  They would just hole up together, gorge on good chocolate, and perhaps watch a movie.  So I made her a little list of some of my favorite NY chocolate shops -- La Maison du Chocolat, Teuscher, Jacques Torres...all the usual suspects.  I asked her if she'd ever seen the film Chocolat, and suggested it for their viewing-while-eating-chocolate pleasure.  She had seen it, but she said that Ian hadn't.  It seemed to her the perfect idea for a way to spend Easter. 

And it suddenly occurred to me that I wanted to do the same thing, especially since G has never seen Chocolat either.  He's not as big a chocolate fan as Ian apparently is, but for the sake of the holiday, he'd be willing to sacrifice, I suppose.  I also had the lightning realization that while I had gone quite some time ago to Jacques Torres' chocolate shop in Brooklyn when I still lived in that borough, I had never been on an excursion to his recently opened Manhattan Chocolate Haven.  My trip to the Brooklyn shop was almost 2 years ago with my foodie friend the lovely Andrea.  Along with the enchanting Ernestine (known to you all  as Ernie through her comments on various posts here), we have made our way through many a food-obssessed eating and shopping blowout.  (Memorable days include the time we hit Myers of Keswick, The Chocolate Bar, Magnolia Bakery, Chelsea Market and Whole Foods all in the same afternoon.  Another debauch sent us to Connecticut for stops at Penzey's Spices, Trader Joe's and Stew Leonard's -- each with their own enchantments not available on the island of Manhattan.)

But when the urge struck me, there were no handy foodie girlfriends sitting around waiting for my call.  So G, who is neither the world's most patient nor eager shopper, kindly volunteered to be my companion for this jaunt.  He was not particularly excited about this, but had rather the attitude of the completely indulgent guardian you wish you always had in a chocolate shop.  Perfect, actually -- a sort of "whatever you want, darling" modus operandi. 

And I went with it, as you can see from the photo above.  Starting clockwise from the back left are brown paper bags of round thin chocolate drops, perfect for baking.  Some are 60% cocoa solids, some are 72%.  That's four pounds, in case you're wondering -- two one-pound bags of 72% and a two-pounder of 60%.  I'm particularly fond of the flavor of Jacques' proprietary blend.  It's an intense chocolate flavor, but without the winy or acid notes of some chocolates.  I find those interesting and often delicious for eating, but for cooking I prefer something where the purity of a deeply chocolate flavor is what predominates.  Next to the bags is the Easter bunny -- our only milk chocolate purchase, although it's holding a large dark chocolate egg.  I'm usually a "the-darker-the-better" girl when it comes to chocolate, but since I've never tried milk chocolate from this shop I thought I'd give it a whirl.  Then come be-ribboned cellophane bags of chocolate almonds, one of my absolute all-time favorite confections.  And these are the best -- the nuts are toasted and crunchy, covered with that superb dark chocolate and a cocoa dusting.  I needed two bags.   I'm sure you understand.  Next up:  shortbread cookies dipped in dark chocolate -- what could be bad?   In the middle of the pic is a round box of apricots dipped in dark chocolate with a hint of chile, topped with a piece of candied ginger -- oh my oh my. 

On the left, in front, you see the ultimate purchase:  as we made our way through the cacao-pod-shaped shop, weaving through tables of downtown tots drinking hot chocolate, eating pains chocolat and choosing bunnies, we finally found ourselves on line with a rather full basket.  Although it gave me pangs, I forewent creating my own box of assorted chocs, which I had done last time with great pleasure.  I figured that a) I had already spent the week's food budget and b) I ought to save at least one joy for the next visit.   But then I saw something I absolutely couldn't go without -- Jacques' Mudslide cookies.  I had read the recipe, but never made or tasted them.  "What are those?  Chocolate cow-patties?" asked G.  I ignored this and blithely added them, along with the price of a cup of hot chocolate to drink as we made our way back to the subway.  G looked at me fondly as we left the store.  "I know exactly how to picture you as a five-year-old," he said.  Phew.  Just as long as he can't picture me as a Noho/Soho/Tribeca matron who shops at fancy-schmancy places all the time. 

So tonight, after a balanced springtime dinner of herb-scented lamb chops, lemon risotto and roast asparagus, the bacchanal will begin.  We'll rev up the DVD for a dessert of Johnny Depp, Juliette Binoche and Jacques Torres.  Could there be a better way to celebrate the Vernal Equinox? 

Comments

[tanvi]

oooh i love jacques torres' chocolate haven. i was absolutely giddy eyeing all the treats. thats some loot you have there, but i totally understand- besides, one can never have too much chocolate, right? :-)

i also love chocolat. i recently saw it but i was thinking about getting some girlfriends together to watch it and of course, indulge in chocolate. juliette binoche is amazing- i cant wait to see her in "in my country"

anyway, happy vernal equinox!

[Ernie]

I'm jealous, all those goodies! Now after a day of feasting, I must have a piece of chocolate.
I hope the two of you enjoyed the movie, in any case there was always Johnny Depp to look at.

[Julie]

I do tend to go overboard when I shop at these places. It's something of a Catch-22 -- I don't go often so that I won't overindulge, so then when I DO go, of course I overindulge...

I always love actors like Juliette Binoche who aren't necessarily "classically" beautiful, but have that transcendent quality about them...and incredible sexiness as well! I'd highly recommend the combination of chocolate and Chocolat -- it's rather seductive.

[Hande]

How funny. Here in Munich, Germany, yesterday I discovered the newest chocolate shop (amelie!) with my husband, got totally out of control, bought some scharfen berger and domori (do you know them?) and came home to watch chocolat which was on tv and devoured half of what we bought. Must be an explosion on the sun surface or smth.....

[Julie]

Hande, it's such a fun film to watch while munching chocolate...glad that you and your husband enjoyed it too. And it's good to know that I'm not the only one that gets totally out of control in chocolate shops...

[keiko]

Hi Julie - I really enjoyed your chocolate extravaganza story! Who doesn't love chocolate? I love the film too (and my cat is called Maya...), do you know the cookbook written by the author of this novel? It's called The French Kitchen and it has lots of lovely recipes.

[JJ Walker]

Have you ever been to the Chocolate Bar in New York City? It has exclusive Jacques Torres creations and a ton of other goodies such as a CBGB collection, retro bars and kickin' drinks!

[eric chocolate strawberries]

Here's how to make delicious chocolate covered strawberries. First of all ensure that the strawberries you are intending

to use are dry, then allow them to be room temperature warm prior to making them. After the strawberries have been

covered in chocolate, put them in your refrigerator to cool, but do not store them in the fridge. Consume within 1-2

days.