Breaking the Rules

In the first few days after 9/11/01,  I suffered from a mild form of survival guilt, as did many of us in NY and elsewhere.  I awoke each morning, and thinking about what to wear that day would make me sob.  Who was I to be able to choose my clothes when so many had died or were suffering?  Trying to decided what food to buy or cook caused a similar response.  Those feelings faded, of course, and life, as it does for all survivors, went on.  I baked brownies and plum cakes to leave at fire stations and police precincts, and once again became capable of being exasperated by my own life's large and small frustrations.

It’s been a rough life for the past couple of weeks.   On a paltry, personal level, we’re feeling somewhat overwhelmed by seasonal demands around here.  Sadly, it’s the time of year when everyone wants us both to get to work.  Rather mean of them, since we had a very nice summer, but there it is.  I’m back full-time consulting in schools, planning and teaching evening grad seminars and doing private tutoring – and it all seemed to start up at more or less the same time, which I guess gives meaning to the phrase “back to school”.  At this point I’m trying to remember that recently there were more or less six weeks where I had to do none of these things.  Frankly, I was getting used to that sort of time-frame:  going on delightful vacations or even just nice walks, puttering around the house, shopping at the farmers’ market and cooking delicious seasonal things, taking naps…. ah well.  Even before September reared its head, life became hectic.  And it’s not only me.  Since G is doing school-related computer consulting and his burgeoning business is taking off, his presence has also been required pretty much non-stop for work-related activities.  In addition, we're trying to figure out if our rent-gouging slumlord's greed is going to compel us to move. 

Perspective is always a gem:  considering the state of other parts of the country, life hasn't been rough for us at all, of course.  We have to back to work -- but at least we have jobs.  And a home.  Anything I might be feeling about my current situation is dwarfed by what I see in the media.  Human behaviors (or I suppose I should say some humans’ behaviors) have shown their unrelentingly ugly side in recent weeks.   Those who could have made this (and many another) tragic situation better, haven’t.  Those whom one would vainly hope might know better have demonstrated a pernicious combination of stupidity and cruelty by making remarks which showcased their own sorry conditions. Those who have precious little to give in the first place are being asked to share, to donate, to "make a difference".   

Yesterday, for example, in our East Harlem neighborhood, a large soundstage was set up more or less under our apartment window, and unrelentingly bad music was performed and played all day, broken only by equally unrelenting politicians exhorting the neighborhood's residents, many of whom are either on public relief and food stamps, or living on social security, to give money to hurricane relief.  It’s not that I don’t believe that everyone can contribute in a crisis.  I’m actually a strong supporter of philanthropy at all levels.  I just wish someone would explain to me why they never set up the loudspeakers on Park Avenue, 20 or even just 15 blocks downtown, where the apartments have private elevators, marble kitchens, wrap-around terraces and the square footage of a large house.  Simple economics would demand that they’d certainly raise a lot more money.  As for me, as tired as I was, and considering that the decibel level meant that we couldn’t occupy our front bedroom all day without being blasted, I would have paid them all just to shut up.  If I’d had the money, I would have, that is.  I’m being petty, perhaps, or downright unreasonable, and you can call me on it. 

Whether or not that's true, it seemed like a weekend for rule-breaking, especially when it came time for dinner.  We’ve eaten relatively locally and seasonally pretty much all summer long, and we’ve enjoyed every mouthful.  Last night, however, we wanted both a sustaining and a heartening meal.  Maybe it was time to step outside the foodily-correct parameters, for a change.  I’m well aware that asparagus has been out of season for four months now – but of course the hothouse variety is always available.   G loves it, especially simply roasted with olive oil and Provençal herb salt.  So I broke down and bought it, guilty as I may have felt with all the summer vegetables at their peak.  In about a month, foods like risotto and crisp-skinned roasted chicken pieces are going to be much more suitable to the weather than they are right now.  But for whatever reason, these things sang their siren song to my appetite last night.   I didn’t make an effort to put seasonal vegetables in the risotto; it was flavored with what I had in the house.  My other curtsy to my personal demons of incorrectness is that the chicken is adapted from a recipe of Giada de Laurentiis'.   In all honesty, I just hate most television chefs and their recipes, too I'm not very fond of TV chefs or their recipes, either.  But whatever I may think of Giada and her ilk, I confess to you here and now that this chicken has been a life-saver on a number of occasions.  For a fairly minimal effort, you get richly brown, crisp-skinned chicken pieces with tender, tangy, almost buttery meat, permeated with herbs and garlic. 

You can save these recipes for cooler weather if you wish.  But if the world is too much with you these days, and solace in the form of food would sound good on your menu, too, this dinner is worth a try. 

Roasted Chicken with Vinaigrette (adapted from Giada de Laurentiis)

A friend of mine suggested I try this recipe about a year ago.  I happened to have both blood orange vinegar and fresh thyme in the house, so I added those to the recipe.  If you'd rather try the original, here it is.  I’ve made it many times since then, and I have to confess that it never fails.  It’s an excellent dish for guests or holiday meals too, since it can easily be multiplied and everyone seems to love it. 

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons blood orange vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
zest and juice of an organic lemon
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1 tsp. dried
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (4-pound) whole chicken, cut into pieces (giblets, neck and backbone reserved for another use) 

Whisk the vinegars, mustard, lemon juice and zest, garlic, thyme, olive oil, salt, and pepper in small bowl to blend. Combine the vinaigrette and chicken pieces in a large resealable plastic bag; seal the bag and toss to coat. Refrigerate, turning the chicken pieces occasionally, for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Remove chicken from the bag and arrange the chicken pieces on a large greased baking dish. Roast until the chicken is just cooked through, about 1 hour. If your chicken browns too quickly, cover it with foil for the remaining cooking time. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter, and drizzle with pan drippings if desired.  Serve with risotto and roasted asparagus, or indeed any side dishes.

Risotto In the House

It was a bit of an experiment, but the flavors of leek and shallot, saffron, basil and cheese work beautifully together, unlikely as the combination might sound. 

2 leeks, halved, cleaned and thinly sliced
4 shallots, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups risotto rice (I used vialone nano, but arborio or carnaroli are fine too, of course)
2/3 cup dry white vermouth (Noilly Prat preferred)
1/2 tsp. saffron dissolved in 4 –5 cups warm rich chicken stock
salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
1/3 cup cream, optional
1/2 cup mixed grated parmigiano reggiano and romano cheeses

Saute the leeks and shallots in a mixture of butter and olive oil until soft.  Add the rice, and sauté for several minutes, until the grains become opaque.  Keeping the pot over medium heat, add 1/3 cup of vermouth, and 1 cup of stock, stirring until it’s absorbed.  Keep adding stock, 1 cup at a time, letting each cup be absorbed before you add the next.  Add salt if necessary, and some pepper.  Taste a rice grain occasionally to test for doneness.  You want the grains still firm, but with no hint of chalkiness.  When you’re getting close but not quite yet there, add the second 1/3 cup of vermouth with your next (and probably last) cupful of stock.  When the rice is creamy and firm, add the basil, cheese, and cream if desired.   Stir well, taste, season again, and serve with additional grated cheese on the side. 

Comments

[Randi]

Giada has some really good recipes, try her lemon spagetti, its very refreshing.

[Sweetnicks]

Giada's Roast Chicken is a favorite in our house, and I agree with Randi, the Lemon Spaghetti is another good one.

[Julie]

Randi and Sweetnicks, thanks to both of you for stopping by! I enjoy reading both of your blogs, btw. I'll have to give Giada's lemon spaghetti a try -- although I must admit I'm hooked on Nigella's lemon linguine, which is a creamy lemon sauce...